Greetings from Oaxaca with mole negro on my face. We landed at a comfortable place (overlanderoasis.com) a few days ago and have stayed longer than we intended.
I think we were in a hurry. Or something.
Last time I wrote here, we were crossing into Baja with the intention of playing on the beach and doing some fishing. We found ourselves on some amazingbeaches (see Al’s dusty corner and Leo’s view), but we were quickly packing up and on to the next place. The drum sound of “Gotta get to South America” setting the beat of our plans and conversations.
So from the pretty cove with awesome towering background cliffs we split for San Carlos. Known for its whale watching, San Carlos is a small town on Magdalena Bay. We rolled into town that eve and were able to find a launcha to take us on an early morning trip. It is peak season for the grey whales to calve, and the bay is full of mama and baby pairs that will come up to the boats.
Unfortunately, we went out on a Saturday. So did a lot of people. It was amazing to be so close to the giants. The curious babes approaching the boats. Watchful mamas nearby. So you can imagine that when there are 11 pangas (open 15ft boats) all vying for the love, the up close and personal whale experience is a bit diluted. However, briefly, it was magical. I hope Leo will remember. We didn’t manage to get photos. So intent on the moment the camera stayed in the bag..
Right off the boat we jumped back into Tatonka Blanca for the long drive to La Paz. Our plans to swim with whale sharks and sea lions got left somewhere along the road, a bit disillusioned with the tourist-meet-wild-sea-creature gig.
So , spur of the moment, without reservations we finagled our way on to the ferry from La Paz to Mazzatlan. Oops, no cabins. Instead, the choice of an open air deck or a smelly sweaty room of seats.
We stayed outside and enjoyed the amazing sun set and blaring tunes until the chill brought us in. The rest of the 17hrs we sat and sort of slept in the miasma of mostly boozed up truck drivers snoring and farting, as the pee smell wafted in thru the hall doors. Mildly traumatized by the odor that clung to us, we splurged on a hotel. (You know it was stinky —it was Alex who suggested getting a hotel). 24hrs later, we started down the toll road.. at a bit more than one peso per kilometer… a fast but not cheap road.
In the next 3 days we covered 1400km. Like I said we are in a hurry.
By nightfall, the first town we hit was Tequila. We met a guy who knew a guy that had a distillery and an agave farm where we could camp. Waking up in a blue field…
We had a morning tour at Jose Cuervo Mundo then set off for Mexico City. After driving for 9 hours we slid into a gas station and passed out.
here we are in Oaxaca. Well, actually we are in Thule, about 8km outside of the city. It is an easy small town. Alex is tinkering with the van- little things.. laundry, clean out the refrigerator, go to a park, take a bike ride. We have been wandering around the town, and just sort of taking a breath.
Are we in hurry? I’m beginning to feel antsy again