20.09.2011 Chitkul – Reckong Peo – Kalpa
I wake up early, around 6 a.m. Not sure if it’s because I’m so excited to be back on the road, or if it’s the altitude, which makes me sleep bad. I step outside to see how the place looks like, where I arrived in the dark last night:

This place is amazing! Apparently Tibet is close by, but you are not allowed to get there. Police & Army protects this region.
After a walk around the village, we start the engines and go back to NH-21. The views remind me of Kashmir from the Pakistani side:

The rack on Raphael’s Enfield broke yesterday, so we look for a workshop to get it welded:

Further down the road Einav falls. Apparently she used the front brake too hard and the wheel blocked. She hurts her knee and hands, but it’s not a serious injury. Proper first aid is provided by the guys, who all had served the Israeli Army:

I can help out with some tape to fix the headlight:

Next stop is Reckong Peo to finally obtain the innerline permits. The way to there is mostly gravel and some mud:

At this sign I’m not sure if we are on the right way, or just joined a member only rally:

There is no chance to get the permits from the DC office directly. We are forced to get them from a Tourist office, which charges Rp. 350. The same permit if free of charge if obtained from Kaza (going the Spiti circle the other way around. The guys at the Tourist office are friendly though and put a “BigTomsRide sticker” on their window:
During lunch, the Indian bikes are being fixed at a workshop. Every bike has some minor technical issues. We spend all afternoon in Reckong Peo waiting for the bikes to get ready and drive up to Kalpa for the night. – Hotel Rollingrang, Kalpa
Sunset at Kapa:
We have dinner at a fancy restaurant.




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