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About Afrikerr

We mainly designed this website so that our family and friends could keep in touch with us and our trip, whilst we were away. However, we know that when we were dreaming about and planning our trip, we found other overlanders' sites really helpful in making our trip a reality. So, if you haven't met us before, here is a little about who we are and why we chose to do this trip.The first thing you need to know, is yes, we know how to spell 'Africa'! We are Shell and Luke Kerr (hence 'Afrikerr') and after much dreaming we will set off in November 2011 on a year long overland adventure around Africa in Bluebelle, our trusty (we hope!) Landrover Defender.

Trip Start: 2013-04-30 Trip End: 2011-11-01 .

Author Archive | Afrikerr

Friendly Oto-men

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Tuesday 11th to Wednesday 12th December 2012.
Bolu, Istanbul, Svilengrad.
The next morning we ate from the hotel’s buffet breakfast before setting off. We dined quietly with the many business men staying in the hotel. It was all very civilized and, well, sterile and unfriendly. Back on the road we turned Bluebelle’s heating up to full in a desperate attempt…

Merhaba

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Saturday 8th to Monday 10th December 2012.
Iskenderun, Pozanti, Bolu.

Stepping off the boat we were led around the crowd of truck drivers collecting their passports from an official’s suitcase. Although on the boat we’d been assured we’d have immigration formalities completed on our behalf, we were ushered off to a portable office to get the process completed ourselves. No…

A Sad Goodbye…

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Tuesday 4th to Saturday 8th December 2012.
Port Said, Ferry from Port Said to Iskenderun.
We had news a week or two back that we were no longer able to get a visa for Libya. Our lifeline, Jill Wilson from Libya Travel and Tours, told us that they discovered the contact that they had helping them organise business visas was…

Treasures & Tiffs

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Monday 3rd to Tuesday 4th December 2012.
Cairo.
The next morning we took up Sam’s kind offer of his washing machine before we ventured out into Cairo for the day. We found a little deli near Sam’s place that served up a mean toasted sandwich. Then we hailed a cab to take us to the Egyptian Museum, on the meter.…

‘Allo Geezer!

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Sunday 2nd December 2012.
Giza, Sidaqua, Dashur, Cairo.
We were up for another gorgeous desert sunrise the next morning. We wanted to make it to the pyramids at Giza today and still have time to explore, so we got packed up and ready to leave early. The only hitch was that Tom’s Landy, Schinedot, wouldn’t start. He’d had a few…

Last Great Wilderness

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Wednesday 28th November to Monday 1st December 2012.
Western Desert (Al-Kharga, Dakhla, Farafra, White Desert, Bawiti).
The next morning we lingered for a while to soak up the desert peace and quiet. It really is beautiful out here and desert wild camps have been some of our favourite throughout the trip. On most of our drive we were surrounded by…

Tomb Raiders Behind the Scenes

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Sunday 25th to Tuesday 27th November 2012.
Aswan, Luxor.
The next morning we had a call from Kamal. He claimed that both we and Tom had left behind the Arabic version of the vehicle licence. Without this, we couldn’t drive around Egypt. We thought it was more likely that he’d forgotten to give it to us, but asked him to…

Waiting Room

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Wednesday 22nd to Saturday 24th November 2012.
Aswan.
A man called Mohammed who works at the port found us as we emerged from the ferry and bustled us ahead of the long queue and through customs, to where Kamal was waiting to greet us. There we also met Mohammed Abouda, who was acting as fixer for our Dutch friends. Kamal…

Floaters

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Monday 19th to Thursday 22nd November 2012.
Wadi Halfa, Aswan.
The following morning, we spent a little time re-organising our cars before driving the final 100km to Wadi Halfa. We weren’t sure if we needed to leave our keys with the men at the ferry. To be safe, we put all the valuables we weren’t taking with us in either…

Under the Nubian Stars

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Saturday 17th to Sunday 18th November 2012.
Karima, Dongola.
In the light of day we could see that the air was coming into the fuel line from a join in the pipe. Without being able to get a new ‘fuel gauge sender unit’ we had to keep improvising. The best we could do was patch it up with silicone and…

Every Cloud Has a Silver Lining

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Thursday 15th to Friday 16th November 2012.
Meroe, Atbara.
The next morning was a gorgeous one at our wild camp. The air was so still and the land so quiet. The long shadows from the small hills shaded us, so the temperature was a lovely cool. It was a nice contrast to the heat of the days here. We had…

Remote Ruins

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Wednesday 14th November 2012.
Naga Temple, Maswwarat.
The following morning we chatted to Jessica for a little while before setting about leaving Khartoum. She recommended that we apply for the ‘Travel and Photo Permit’ issued by the Department of Tourism, Antiquities and Wildlife. She had the forms there, made the copies we’d need of our Sudanese visas and passport photo…

Zig-zag

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Tuesday 13th November 2012.
Khartoum.
The next morning a few large herds of goats passed through our camp. Our alarm didn’t go off, so we didn’t set off as early as we’d planned. The sky was clear, vast and pale. The only clouds in the sky were dust clouds stirred up by passing vehicles in the villages. We stopped in…

Into the Heat

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Monday 12th November 2012.
Gallabat, Wad Medani
The crowd of men at the Gallabat border post were unfriendly and abrupt. One tried to rifle through the documents in my hands rather than tell me what he wished to see. It turned out they just wanted to check our carnet before they waved us through to the offices for our stamps.…

Camelot of Africa

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Saturday 10th to Monday 12th November 2012.
Debretabor, Gonder.
It was quiet the next morning and lovely to catch up on a little sleep. We tried out the breakfast in the hotel as it’s just so cheap to eat out here. Luke was brave ordering the Lamb Dulet. He suffered buyer’s remorse when the plate appeared though, it was not…

Holy Rock

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Thursday 8th to Friday 9th November 2012.
Lalibela, Debretabor.
We left Wim’s Holland House as the sun was just creeping over Addis. With quite a few other travellers in Wim’s tiny yard, it took a little manoeuvring to get our cars safely over the mechanic-pit in front of the gate. It was a good time to drive through the city,…

New Flower

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Sunday 4th to Wednesday 7th November 2012.
Addis Ababa.
We awoke to find the sky the colour of Wedgewood china, with just a few fluffy bread-roll clouds balanced on it. We thanked Karatu for his kindness in having us stay and braved the main road to Addis Ababa. The land leaving Awassa was flat and dedicated to fertile farms. Being…

T’ i ru Food

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Saturday 3rd November 2012.
Arba Minch, Awassa.
The next morning we breakfasted on the terrace whilst soaking up the gorgeous view of the pastel mountains above the twin lakes. We savoured the cold crunchy toast, a wonderful mature cheese omelette and a creamy macchiato. In Arba Minch itself we stopped to find an ATM and then refill with fuel. People…

Choo Choo…destination, Konso

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Friday 2nd November 2012.
Konso.
Our morning started way too early for our liking, mainly thanks to all manner of noises in the town around us. At 4am we were woken by some kind of religious revival that sounded as if it were happening by mega-phone. Trucks roared in and out of the Edget Hotel grounds, providing us with a…

Freak Show

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Thursday 1st November 2012.
Mago National Park, Jinka, Key Afra, Konso.
It was raining and dark the next morning. By 6am we were outside our hotel waiting for our guide, Manio. For the next fifteen minutes we tried to call him, but there was no answer. We were just about to call another guide we’d spoken too when we saw…

Insane Greetings

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Tuesday 30th to Wednesday 31st October 2012
Omerate, Turmi.
North of Lake Turkana we met our first Ethiopian road and turned west towards Omerate. We were driving on the right again, for the first time since Angola. In Omerate the immigration compound was easy enough to find. As we entered we met a couple of French overlanders exiting. We chatted…

Tranquil Turkana

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Tuesday 23rd to Tuesday 30thOctober 2012.
Nairobi, Timau, Maralal, South Horr, Loyangalani, Iloret.
Tuesday morning we set out first thing to get ourselves ready to head north. The first task on our list was to get ourselves stamped out of the country. Tom and Klaus had given us directions to find the helpful Assistant Director of Immigration, Mr Chege, so…

Grease Monkey

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Thursday 11th to Monday 22nd October 2012
Nairobi.
First thing the next morning we dressed as smartly as we could and drove to the Sudan Embassy. We were pleased to find our passports ready for us and freshly stamped with a two month tourist visa. Next we headed straight for the Ethiopian embassy. As we were checking in with security…

Raining Baboons & Rhinos

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Tuesday 9th to Wednesday 10th October 2012.
Naivasha, Nakuru.
The next morning giant marabou stalked about the lawn. Mick befriended a nice waiter called John and bargained us all an excellent price on the buffet breakfast. We were treated to a fry up with a selection of fruits. We even had omelettes made by the friendly Jacob, who was trained…

Meaty Business

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Saturday 6th to Monday 8th October 2012.
Nairobi.
At the Kenyan side of the border we met a crowd of other muzungu and local travellers. We filled in brief immigration cards then joined the queues. At the counter the officer gave us additional visa forms to take away and complete. The tourist visas cost us US$50 each and gave us…

Not a good day for Land Rover

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Friday 5th to Saturday 6th October 2012.
Karatu, Arusha.
The next morning we busied ourselves with filtering water before getting on the road. We drew a small crowd of Masai men, who were eager to help and chat to us. They helped with all we started, zipping up our tents for us and helping pile things back into Bluebelle. With…

ROAAAARRR!!

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Wednesday 3rd to Thursday 4th October 2012.
Ngorogoro Crater.
Climbing the mountains of the western rift shelf we got a stunning view of the valley and Lake Manyara. High on the hillside, we stopped at a lookout to admire the view. Luke tested out the echo and there found an awesome ricochet of sound.
In Karatu, we hunted for something…

Quintessential Africa

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Monday 1st to Wednesday 3rd October 2012.
Tarangire National Park.
The next morning we were up with the sun and were rewarded with spectacular views of Kilimanjaro.
We were in Arusha stocking up on supplies for the Tarangire National Park when we met Roland and Rita; overlanders travelling south from Holland. We stopped in a swish ex-pat part of town for…

Deep Blue

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Saturday 29th to Sunday 30th September 2012.
Pangani River, Lake Chala.
The bird life around the river the next morning was fantastic. We watched the colourful birds flit around in the palms and tall grasses whilst we ate breakfast. We were on the road around 9am and arrived at Moshi around lunchtime. The scenery stretched out in dry plains of…

A Pleasant Itch

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Wednesday 26th to Friday 28th September 2012.
Pangani.
Outside of Dar’s city limits the landscape was browned dry. We passed several bushfires that looked in danger of getting out of control. We also dodged some rather dangerous drivers. In one spot we passed the wreckage of a recent collision between two buses. One bus had spilled onto its side into…