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Turning for home

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Sudan would end up being the northern most country we would visit on our African odyssey. With time and declining bank balances, restrictive Egyptian import laws, and the Syrian conflict staring back at us, we made the difficult decision to…

The Whirling Dervishes, Khartoum, Sudan

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Any tour of Sudan should have going to Omdurman on a Friday night on its to-do list, where every week hundreds gather at Hamed al-Nil Tomb to witness the dervishes.We arrived at 5pm, when the crowds were scarce. In…

To the Red Sea!

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Crossing over to North Sudan Driving down from Gondar in Ethiopia to the Sudanese border takes you from a very cool elevation of 2,100m down to just 600m. Upon arriving at the border town of Metema, we were completely dumbfounded…

The Historical Route, Ethiopia

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Given the Internet struggles, here is a belated post on our tour through historical Ethiopia — Lalibela, Tigrai, Axum, and Gondar. 1st Stop: Lalibela High in the Lasta mountains sits the ancient holy town of Lalibela. To get there is…

The Toughest Place on Earth | Danakil Depression

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Sulfuric acid is bubbling up through the salt-encrusted ground. The daytime heat soars over 46 degrees Celsius and the Gara (Fire Wind) is blowing incessantly. We’re in the Danakil Depression: -116m below sea level and officially, the hottest place on…

Immigration Hoopla in Addis Ababa, Ethiopia

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We reached Addis! After picking up Margot, a friend from San Francisco, we dropped our bags at Wimms Holland House. Notorious as the overland camping site, the place has fallen a bit in amenities and hygiene. But it’s right in…

South Omo, Ethiopia

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Ethiopia Part 1: South OmoNothing we’ve seen in Africa quite comes close to South Omo. Here, you don’t find a trace of “modern Africa,” and passing through the Ethiopian mountains was like entering a time warp.Even up to…

Onwards to Ethiopia through Lake Turkana

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In choosing your route north from Nairobi to Ethiopia you have two options. On one hand, there is a vague route via Lake Turkana, taking you over the road ‘hardly ever trodden,’ and travelling close to 1000km without fuel stops…

In the big city of Nairobi, Kenya

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Bumper to bumper traffic welcomed us into the Nairobi, East Africa’s hub. And we were quintessential country kids who finally arrived at “the big city,” marveling at the 24-hr stores, cosmopolitan fare, and skyscrapers 10 stories high. One of our…

Putt.. Putt… Putting North

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Heading North from Dar, the PPE made light work of the well travelled and nicely tarred Dar-Arusha road. Although we had planned on staying further up the Swahili coast at Pangani, we settled on Lushoto, in the Usambara Mountains and…

A month in Dar.. and counting..

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We made a hurried return back to Dar just in time for Christmas.. and lo and behold.. we’re still here. What was meant to be a week in town catching up with friends turned into six. Nevertheless – Christine and…

Victoria Falls, and a Soldier Down

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After a mad dash escaping the rains and a border crossing later, we found ourselves in Livingstone, home of the Zambian side of the mighty Victoria Falls. The Falls were initially underwhelming, a result of our visit coinciding with only…

The Caprivi Strip, Namibia

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A little dated but… Our first night in the Caprivi Strip in Namibia, we stayed right on the banks of the Okavango River in Rundu. Though the view of the river and Angola on the other side was beautiful, we…

Epupa Falls

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A Tale of Two Radiators After 2 weeks, 2 cities, and 2 national parks, we finally got our holy grail in Tsumeb: a new radiator. At one point I thought the radiator just wasn’t meant to be. The one we…

Camping on the Kwando River

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Nwambe CampNwambe – one of our favourite spots yet. A male hippo joined us for dinner, surfacing right next to the purple people eater. Needless to say, we finished dinner from the safety of our roof tent. Onwards to…

Etosha National Park, Namibia

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After a brief stopover in Windhoek, we put the pedal to the floor and made it to Etosha National Park right before the Andersson Gate closed.We hurried to set up our tents at Okaukuejo rest camp, and promptly rushed…

Camping @ Epupa falls

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After a 300km drive over heavily corrugated roads this is what we’ve been greeted with. Angola is a stone’s throw on the other side. Magical ! -Eugene…

Namibia’s Skeleton Coast

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We finally found refuge from the blistering heat of the Namib desert by heading for Namibia’s West coast. After three weeks of 35 degree (and counting!) temperatures, the crisp air of the Atlantic meeting the desert dunes on the Skeleton…

46 degrees and counting..

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We were greeted by the Namib Desert with an overheating car and 46 degree temperatures. In heat like that, your body screams at you and forces you to seek respite.We took a note from Aslan’s book and our time…