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About Heading South for Winter

Anna and James - travelling the classic Cairo to Cape Town route in our Landcruiser.

Trip Start: 2012-11-03 Trip End: 2013-02-28 .

Author Archive | Heading South for Winter

We were now high tailing it south, and very excited about arriving in the beautiful city of Cape Town.  By now, we had travelled 18,000 km (16,000 thousand on, 2,000 thousand off the road), through 21 coutries in 3 continents. Stayed at 13 hotels,...

Cape Town Baby!

Read the original post and follow Heading South for Winter's overland adventures on their website: Heading South for Winter.


We were now high tailing it south, and very excited about arriving in the beautiful city of Cape Town.  By now, we had travelled 18,000 km (16,000 thousand on, 2,000…
<div></div><br><div><span>We had pretty high expectations going into Ethiopia, as various friends had been there and raved about it, but throughout all of our trip we really weren’t disappointed.  As we headed south from Addis, every drive continued to be absolutely stunning – which was fortunate as we had quite a long distance to cover to get down to the Kenyan border.</span></div><div><span><br></span></div><div><span>Our first leg was following the Rift Valley down to Arba Minch.  The roads were the usual challenge of livestock and child dodging, but the landscape really changed from highlands, to savannah, up into rainforested hills and then down into the classic red soil African valleys.</span></div><div><span><br></span></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0"><tbody><tr><td><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-HAdv5Ul2CnY/UP2VDBM21UI/AAAAAAAAD50/fnJJ9ARyWxg/s1600/P1000271.JPG"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-HAdv5Ul2CnY/UP2VDBM21UI/AAAAAAAAD50/fnJJ9ARyWxg/s320/P1000271.JPG" width="320"></a></td></tr><tr><td>Rift Valley south of Addis</td></tr></tbody></table><br><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0"><tbody><tr><td><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-2dZU5Lh_cKc/UP2VBOMnIII/AAAAAAAAD5s/79ELHeF7twI/s1600/P1000303.JPG"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-2dZU5Lh_cKc/UP2VBOMnIII/AAAAAAAAD5s/79ELHeF7twI/s320/P1000303.JPG" width="320"></a></td></tr><tr><td>Forest and red soil</td></tr></tbody></table><div> <a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-wwWv7nwbEsE/UP2VDsn9LKI/AAAAAAAAD54/85v1nf6T7_Y/s1600/P1000295.JPG"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-wwWv7nwbEsE/UP2VDsn9LKI/AAAAAAAAD54/85v1nf6T7_Y/s320/P1000295.JPG" width="320"></a></div><br><div><span><br></span></div><div><span>Arba Minch itself is in a pretty amazing location.  We stayed at a campsite overlooking ‘The Bridge of God’, a thin strip of land between two Rift Valley lakes.  Not sure if it’s obvious from the photo, but the two lakes are totally different colours as the northern one has a reddish tinge from the mineral rich mountains that feed it.</span></div><div><span><br></span></div><div><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ebxoVe5hLWw/UP2WTVPqKbI/AAAAAAAAD6Q/P7bETsxzh48/s1600/P1000323.JPG"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ebxoVe5hLWw/UP2WTVPqKbI/AAAAAAAAD6Q/P7bETsxzh48/s320/P1000323.JPG" width="320"></a></div><br><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0"><tbody><tr><td><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-5336cl0Sdoo/UP2WVuhsf4I/AAAAAAAAD6Y/UqyZlGC6DTo/s1600/P1000321.JPG"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-5336cl0Sdoo/UP2WVuhsf4I/AAAAAAAAD6Y/UqyZlGC6DTo/s320/P1000321.JPG" width="320"></a></td></tr><tr><td>It really is pretty red in real life</td></tr></tbody></table><div><span><br></span></div><div><span>We shared our campsite with a lot of Ethiopian Christmas revellers and three fairly friendly warthogs.</span></div><div><span><br></span></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0"><tbody><tr><td><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-wrW_CMmlKns/UP2Yea-xolI/AAAAAAAAD6s/BxTsZ6g6YDs/s1600/P1020656.JPG"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-wrW_CMmlKns/UP2Yea-xolI/AAAAAAAAD6s/BxTsZ6g6YDs/s320/P1020656.JPG" width="320"></a></td></tr><tr><td>Definitely not nervous</td></tr></tbody></table><br><div><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-q3xD3J00s-U/UP2Yf5Po4BI/AAAAAAAAD6w/ciIWNYahF-I/s1600/P1020659.JPG"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-q3xD3J00s-U/UP2Yf5Po4BI/AAAAAAAAD6w/ciIWNYahF-I/s320/P1020659.JPG" width="320"></a></div><div><span><br></span></div><div><span>Heading up into the mountains we visited the villages of the Dorze, highlanders famous for weaving.  We had a really fun day seeing how they build their huts (very tall but shrinking over the years as the termites gradually eat them) and learning how to make the local bread (fake banana plant buried in the ground and left to ferment for several weeks – fairly ‘interesting’ taste).</span></div><div><span><br></span></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0"><tbody><tr><td><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-X1tkNjyccbc/UP2Z_mcqwKI/AAAAAAAAD7I/ry97-VNSR7E/s1600/P1000329.JPG"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-X1tkNjyccbc/UP2Z_mcqwKI/AAAAAAAAD7I/ry97-VNSR7E/s320/P1000329.JPG" width="320"></a></td></tr><tr><td>Bread fermented underground - nicer than it sounds</td></tr></tbody></table><div><span><br></span></div><div><span>The last area of Ethiopia we visited was the Omo Valley, which is famous for its distinctive tribes, partly due to Don McCullin’s photos of them. </span></div><div><span><br></span></div><div><span>http://contact.photoshelter.com/gallery/Don-McCullin-In-Africa-Book/G0000fyBUOGk32ik/C0000czlAAq16AeA</span></div><div><span><br></span></div><div><span>The remoteness of the area has preserved a lot of local traditions and distinctive dress - although the all pervasive football shirt was definitely being incorporated into a lot of the traditional outfits!  Some customs sounded pretty entertaining (running along the backs of bulls before you’re allowed to get married), some less so (whipping your female relatives), but we put on our cultural relativity hats and headed off.</span></div><div><span><br></span></div><div><span>We’d heard the experience of travelling the area could be a bit weird and ‘human zoo’ because of all the tourism, and while that was definitely the case in some places it really wasn’t in others.  </span></div><div><span>We drove into the valley past the usual stunning landscapes and stopped in a town called Key Afer as it was market day the next day.  Having spent most of the evening playing with the kids from our campsite, we ended up with several tiny (and very serious) tour guides for our visit. </span></div><div><span><br></span></div><div><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-d_GyGgqj2Mw/UP2dDtz91FI/AAAAAAAAD8U/EHoytBYrRao/s1600/P1000358.JPG"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-d_GyGgqj2Mw/UP2dDtz91FI/AAAAAAAAD8U/EHoytBYrRao/s320/P1000358.JPG" width="320"></a></div><div><span><br></span></div><div><span>First stop was the livestock market.  It’s just getting warmed up, in these photos but the guys rocking mini skirts, headbands and utility vests are from the Banna tribe, who we think are probably the coolest.</span></div><div><span><br></span></div><div><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-R--i_xbV5yM/UP2bYDwaPAI/AAAAAAAAD7c/LA8aNCelG6Y/s1600/P1000356.JPG"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-R--i_xbV5yM/UP2bYDwaPAI/AAAAAAAAD7c/LA8aNCelG6Y/s320/P1000356.JPG" width="320"></a></div><br><div><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-wJSoLUGJPNg/UP2bYj9EkTI/AAAAAAAAD7k/4Ub0aWBVnm0/s1600/SAM_1654.JPG"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-wJSoLUGJPNg/UP2bYj9EkTI/AAAAAAAAD7k/4Ub0aWBVnm0/s320/SAM_1654.JPG" width="320"></a></div><br><div><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-zGfp27i4LWI/UP2bY4uqMKI/AAAAAAAAD7o/7T3PQE2gW4Y/s1600/P1000352.JPG"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-zGfp27i4LWI/UP2bY4uqMKI/AAAAAAAAD7o/7T3PQE2gW4Y/s320/P1000352.JPG" width="320"></a></div><br><div><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Kdnagcq8RAo/UP2beZuK_EI/AAAAAAAAD70/zmAx-jR21z8/s1600/SAM_1655.JPG"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Kdnagcq8RAo/UP2beZuK_EI/AAAAAAAAD70/zmAx-jR21z8/s320/SAM_1655.JPG" width="320"></a></div><div><span><br></span></div><div><span>The main market was for fruit and veg (although the electronics stall was attracting the most attention).  In the market and on all the road approaching it were masses of people from different tribes – more Banna, Ari in grass skirts, Hamer ladies with ochre coloured hair and calabashes on their heads – it really was like walking into a different world.</span></div><div><span><br></span></div><br><div><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-jnzzAtaRwS0/UP2dHrrAacI/AAAAAAAAD8c/26fpWOmFssA/s1600/P1000367.JPG"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-jnzzAtaRwS0/UP2dHrrAacI/AAAAAAAAD8c/26fpWOmFssA/s320/P1000367.JPG" width="240"></a></div><br><div><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Lt3l1fFnTlI/UP2dLeQ_dDI/AAAAAAAAD8k/7rufu3pim7U/s1600/P1000365.JPG"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Lt3l1fFnTlI/UP2dLeQ_dDI/AAAAAAAAD8k/7rufu3pim7U/s320/P1000365.JPG" width="320"></a></div><br><div><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-dxPMZZqXNws/UP2dQtYMutI/AAAAAAAAD8s/eL4Gv_0yZvQ/s1600/P1000368.JPG"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-dxPMZZqXNws/UP2dQtYMutI/AAAAAAAAD8s/eL4Gv_0yZvQ/s320/P1000368.JPG" width="320"></a></div><div><span><br></span></div><div><span>Next day however, we came up against some of the grimmer impacts of tourism in the valley.  We had driven into the Mago National Park and camped for the night right in the forest.  The local elephants stayed away, but we had visits from Colobus monkeys and a troop of baboons.</span></div><div><span><br></span></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0"><tbody><tr><td><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-2jYr3XSXd1I/UP2eoTV-dtI/AAAAAAAAD9E/qUajQBF75_c/s1600/P1000408.JPG"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-2jYr3XSXd1I/UP2eoTV-dtI/AAAAAAAAD9E/qUajQBF75_c/s320/P1000408.JPG" width="320"></a></td></tr><tr><td>Road to the park</td></tr></tbody></table> <br><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0"><tbody><tr><td><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-L5Twl5ECJeI/UP2e8ShE_6I/AAAAAAAAD9s/NlASsppHNgw/s1600/P1000433.JPG"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-L5Twl5ECJeI/UP2e8ShE_6I/AAAAAAAAD9s/NlASsppHNgw/s320/P1000433.JPG" width="320"></a></td></tr><tr><td>Some visitors</td></tr></tbody></table><div><span><br></span></div><div><span>We decided to visit some of the villages of the Mursi in the park – famous for the lip plates that a lot of the women wear.  It was a pretty depressing experience though, as the guides from the nearest big town (Jinja) just seem to bus tourists out and stick them in front of the locals to take photos, with zero effort to translate or create any exchange between the visitors and the villagers.  Everyone just stands there demanding money and a lot of the guys seemed to be high/drunk.  Probably a great case study of how it can all go wrong, but left us feeling pretty sad.</span></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0"><tbody><tr><td><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-oWUN5YlLyGY/UP2e3MztzDI/AAAAAAAAD9c/K8SbqzyyKlY/s1600/P1020685.JPG"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-oWUN5YlLyGY/UP2e3MztzDI/AAAAAAAAD9c/K8SbqzyyKlY/s320/P1020685.JPG" width="240"></a></td></tr><tr><td>Cool photo but generally feeling a lot of tourist guilt!</td></tr></tbody></table><div><span></span><br><span></span></div><div><span>We definitely preferred just driving across the region and meeting everybody in the towns or on the roads – that really was unforgettable and it was amazing to see so many places that were </span></div><div><span>just totally alien to anything we were used to.</span></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0"><tbody><tr><td><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ZvbiTRPAZDs/UP2epCKEhCI/AAAAAAAAD9I/yI2MgZc9rrM/s1600/P1000377.JPG"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ZvbiTRPAZDs/UP2epCKEhCI/AAAAAAAAD9I/yI2MgZc9rrM/s320/P1000377.JPG" width="320"></a></td></tr><tr><td>Ari (I think) women on the way to market</td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0"><tbody><tr><td><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-nYuFO7-hcEQ/UP2fEWehv4I/AAAAAAAAD90/g24nD9KaIZw/s1600/SAM_1656.JPG"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-nYuFO7-hcEQ/UP2fEWehv4I/AAAAAAAAD90/g24nD9KaIZw/s320/SAM_1656.JPG" width="320"></a></td></tr><tr><td>Mursi mum</td></tr></tbody></table><div><span></span><br><span></span></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0"><tbody><tr><td><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-lEGQ_zL94s0/UP2e7D6m2iI/AAAAAAAAD9k/MJFjIL4mBDo/s1600/P1020688.JPG"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-lEGQ_zL94s0/UP2e7D6m2iI/AAAAAAAAD9k/MJFjIL4mBDo/s320/P1020688.JPG" width="320"></a></td></tr><tr><td>Mago National Park in the rain</td></tr></tbody></table><div><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-2I8M06EqPfM/UP2eq9I1ikI/AAAAAAAAD9U/UZgMnnb2epg/s1600/P1000385.JPG"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-2I8M06EqPfM/UP2eq9I1ikI/AAAAAAAAD9U/UZgMnnb2epg/s320/P1000385.JPG" width="320"></a></div><div><span><br></span></div>

Tribe Time

Read the original post and follow Heading South for Winter's overland adventures on their website: Heading South for Winter.


We had pretty high expectations going into Ethiopia, as various friends had been there and raved about it, but throughout all of our trip we really weren’t disappointed.  As we…
<br><div><span>Having indulged ourselves in Istanbul and shivered our way through the ‘fairy chimneys’ of Cappadocia, we accelerated on down a spanking new motorway through stunning mountain ranges and arrived in Iskenderun, the port for the ferry to Egypt.</span></div><div><span><br></span></div><div><span>Hmmm – something familiar about this place we thought.  Why yes!</span></div><div><span><br></span></div><div><i><span>“During the Crusades, three Knights of the First Crusade discovered the Holy Grail and stayed with it in the Temple of the Sun. When two of the knights left for Europe, they left behind two markers that led to the Grail's location, listing Alexandretta [now Iskenderun] as the starting point...In 1938, after discovering the second marker in Venice, Indiana Jones sent Marcus Brody ahead to Iskenderun to meet up with Sallah and start the search for the Holy Grail while Jones went with Elsa Schneider to rescue Henry Jones, Sr.. Brody and Sallah met up at the train station, but Brody was kidnapped by Nazi agents, who took the map. Days later, Sallah met up with Jones and his father in the town, and drove them out to the desert, where they spied Walter Donovan's convoy and attempted a rescue”<p></p></span></i></div><div><span><br></span></div><div><span>Thank you Indiana Jones Wiki.</span></div><div><span><br></span></div><div><span>We liked Iskenderun. Maybe because it is 10 degrees warmer than where we’ve come from, but it had a feel of freedom about it, which I think only comes in towns distant from their administrative centre. It is comfortable in its own personality, subtlety influenced by the outside world through its large port, and friendly to fault.</span><br><span><br></span><br><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0"><tbody><tr><td><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-uqYfJwTmE6k/UKtGqPRSCeI/AAAAAAAADVQ/RXphx1r-_Ig/s1600/indy.jpg"><img border="0" height="228" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-uqYfJwTmE6k/UKtGqPRSCeI/AAAAAAAADVQ/RXphx1r-_Ig/s320/indy.jpg" width="320"></a></td></tr><tr><td>James and I arrive in Iskenderun</td></tr></tbody></table><span><br></span></div>

Indy!

Read the original post and follow Heading South for Winter's overland adventures on their website: Heading South for Winter.


Having indulged ourselves in Istanbul and shivered our way through the ‘fairy chimneys’ of Cappadocia, we accelerated on down a spanking new motorway through stunning mountain ranges and arrived in…

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