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Etosha National Park

We are suffering from a bit of sensory overload after three days in Etosha. It is not easy to describe the scenery, the vegetation, the vastness of the Etosha Pan, or the animals we saw. Or the numbers of animals we saw… Etosha National Park started out in the early 1900s as a 90,000 square kilometre park, but the last…

Towards Etosha

Next day was a longish one – we needed to make it almost 300km to Roy’s Rest Camp just outside Grootfontein.  We also discovered that the main part of Namibia is on a different time zone!  So, turning the clocks back gave us an extra hour in the day. On the way, we stopped in Rundu to find the “Forget-me-not…

First Namibian steps …

So, here we are.  Already been in Namibia a few nights!  Time is just flying. After crossing the border at Ngoma, we headed up to Katima Mulilo.  Here, we had a few errands to take care of: draw Namibian dollars, pay for Namibian road tax, fill fuel, buy provisions. We knew ahead of time that South African Rands are legal…

Dreaming of Botswana … still …

We were very excited when our vehicle arrived in Cape Town – amongst other things, it meant that we could finalise a plan that had been brewing for a while: join Global Adventures on their Botswana Recce. Their plan to visit Botswana had been a year or more in the making, and the excitement was certainly tangible when we set…

Chobe National Park

This was our last stop in Botswana, the culmination of a fantastic two weeks, and with a fitting finale. Our exit from Moremi National Park was followed by a 40km sandy track until we entered at Mababe Gate.  Surprisingly, it wasn’t the easiest navigation, but we found our way to the entrance.  Once again, we signed the necessary books and…

Moremi Game Reserve

Elephants. Not just a few – many. Not just one herd – many. It is funny how some places appeal to you, and some don’t. Moremi really appeals to both of us. It is a lovely mixture of forest, grass, plains, and water – both river and water holes. It is a peaceful park. Although there are other vehicles around…

Makgadigadi Pans Game Reserve

This is elephant land!  Every park we have visited has been special in its own way, and on our entry into Makgadigadi we were introduced to the large mammals who would be our constant companions in this and the next parks. The western entrance to Makgadigadi – Khumaga Gate – requires a typical African ferry crossing.  Much like our experience…

Central Kalahari Game Reserve

Magic. I’m running out of superlatives, and it is difficult not to repeat myself when writing these posts. Central Kalahari Game Reserve lies in the middle of Botswana. It is the size of Switzerland or Denmark, and probably does not contain more than about 300 people at any given time. It has 36 campsites, and a few lodges, and nothing…

Khama Rhino Sanctuary

We saw them! The rhino. They are a rare sight these days, but fortunately there are some left. I wonder how long we will still have rhino due to the demand for their horn – and therefore the subsequent poaching – from the Far East. Khama Rhino Sanctuary was set up to provide a safe haven for rhino. After a…

Palapye

From Molema, we headed towards our next destination of Khama Rhino Sanctuary.  Not over extending ourselves, and needing a stop for provisions and pula, we headed for Palapye, about 60km from Khama Rhino Santuary. On the way we crossed the infamous Veterinary Control Fence – a 3,000km fence that divides Botswana into two areas – one part that is foot-and-mouth…

Molema Bush Camp

  Although the border crossing into Botswana had been hasslefree, the day time temperature was rising, and we were eager from some shade.  Although it is autumn, the day time temperatures still reach well into the 20’s.  We were eager for a bit of shade to park up and rest through “silly hour” – the early afternoon hours when no…

Mapungubwe National Park

It was completely dark when we reached the campsite, and the guard at the entrance to this side of the park looked at us suspiciously when we arrived. After producing park permits, camping bookings, and the receipt for the cultural walk he let us in. We proceeded to the campsite where we had to “take down” the electric fence before…

On the road again …

Yip – it’s here! After a long break, we are back on the road.  We have met up with as many friends and family as possible, here in South Africa, given the vehicle some well deserved TLC … and it is time! We have one last stop in South Africa – yes, another national park - and then it is…

Getting itchy feet

Our time in Johannesburg has not been idle time! With much to do, and our departure date of 27th April – at the latest – looming, we are keeping active. Most importantly, of course, is meeting up with fellow overlanders.  As I have mentioned many times, it is such a welcoming community, so generous with knowledge, and frequently you get…

Musings on village projects and co-operatives

In an overflow of the brain, musings and reflections of the stage completed and the stage about to begin are oozing. These are my own opinions, so be warned. I have never subscribed to the belief of handouts – anywhere in the world.  To my mind, and from what we have seen, it creates a culture of dependency and in…

Route planning under way

When we left the UK – in quite a rush of packing, storing, visiting as you may remember – we hadn’t done detailed day to day route planning.  We knew which countries we wanted to visit, and we had our trusty guide book.  We also chatted to people along the way, about what was worth seeing, what was worth avoiding,…

Through new eyes

At some point it had to happen – back to Johannesburg to repack the vehicle and complete route planning. The first time Viking Explorer visited South Africa – all those years ago – we completed this 1,500km journey from Cape Town to Johannesburg in one epic day.  Not so this time … we are more like the tortoise and less…

Karoo National Park

So glad we stopped! We were discussing our route from Cape Town to Johannesburg when Sheelah remembered that there is a small national park in the Karoo – the Karoo National Park. It is about 450km from Hermanus – where we were staying – and provides a perfect 1/3-of-the-way stop. It must be explained here that even though we did…

Surrounded by family

One of the things that we have missed the most when living in the UK, is that our family are far away.  So, our Easter weekend spent in Onrus continued the immersion in African GirlChild’s family embrace which started in Cape Town (when we stayed with my uncle and aunt, Tim & Margie). Gavin & Cynthia (yes, more uncles and…

On reaching Cape Agulhas

There was a certain amount of sadness today. The last 5 days have been an emotional roller coast ride.  On Sunday, we flew down to Cape Town in anticipation of being reunited with our vehicle on Monday.  My aunt and uncle, Margie & Tim, kindly came to collect us from the airport, and had arranged for us to stay with…

West Coast National Park

A Western Cape gem When we prepared for our trip we tapped into the Overland Community. There were many people who helped us with information, but particularly patient were Langebaan Sunset. So, after collecting Brodie in Cape Town we invited ourselves to visit Langebaan Sunset in – yes you guessed it – Langebaan. Confirming directions we discovered that it is…

Brodie is back!

Brodie is back! After a long wait we received confirmation from our contact Keith that the vessel had docked, the container had been unloaded, and that it was now waiting for us at the SA Container Depot. Arrangements had been made with Customs, and the container opening was scheduled to take place at noon. Our hosts in Cape Town were…

Exploring Kruger on foot

After the poor experiences of National Parks in Senegal, we were looking forward to visiting the wondrous parks of Southern Africa.  Kruger Park is a real favourite of ours, and particularly the opportunity to enjoy walking through the bush – with guide of course. Walking is – for us – the ultimate way to experience the bush.  It allows you…

Makuya National Park

Basic but appealing. 500km north of Johannesburg is the Makuya National Park. Makuya is a small park that shares a fenceless border with the Kruger National Park. It is situated just outside the northern part of Kruger, and is about an hour drive from the Pafuri Gate. The online information about the park tells you that “this awesome camp is…

Meeting of old friends

And so passes another week of waiting for the vehicle – but what an amazing week it has been! The highlight of the week was meeting up with our dear friends Noel and Ping – again!  We travelled with them for a week when we first entered Morocco all those months ago.  Then, we met up with them again outside…

Waiting for the vehicle part 1

Johannesburg, South Africa It almost feels like we are back in preparation mode … so it feels quite natural to fall back into my weekly “preparation” update posts – only this time they are “between stages” updates. When we arrived in South Africa, we thought we had only a few days until our vehicle arrived.  We had our clearing agent…

Budget update – Senegal

As promised, we have been tracking trip costs so that others have some idea of what may be incurred.  Of course, at the end of the day, it does all depend on your own choices. The Central African Franc (CFA) is the currency in Senegal and other parts of west Africa.  It is apparently pegged to the Euro at 650…

Kapps, Caps, Cabos and Capes

As a wise lady (Viking Explorer’s sister, of course) wrote on the blog: “It’s like a book, really – you flip the page, and the story takes an unexpected turn… Looking forward to the next chapter ”. And here it is – the next chapter. Kapp2Cape seems to be taking on a life of its own – and it clearly…

“We are sailing…”

Two very important points: 1) Africa changes quickly; 2) It isn’t about what you know, it is who you know… We were in Tambacounda in Senegal when the French decided to intervene in Mali, and we were at the campsite in Palmarin when the five people were killed in Casamance. It really confirmed our decision to ship our vehicle from…

Uncovering Dakar

Hotel SouSoum, Dakar After the tranquillity of Djidjack, Dakar was bound to be a bit of a culture shock.  In fact, it wasn’t that bad.  Once we tuned in to its own unique rhythm, it was a likable city, and surprisingly affordable (if you knew where to look). We were recommended a charming little hotel by Jean-Paul at Djidjack.  It…