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28 Days Later

28 Days Later

Despair.  Agony.  Devastation.  Mind numbing depression. We boarded the plane in São Paulo expecting the worst. Returning to life? We quizzed our veteran overland friends on the homecoming and transition process. The general consensus was bleak.  We just spent 15...
Please Standby

Please Standby

Initiating reintegration procedures now. This may take a few weeks. Please standby. Giants vs. Dodgers to get this transition started right Tacos and margaritas, our kind of homecoming "You don't like baseball, you like to sit in the sun and drink beer."...
Trout Therapy

Trout Therapy

The Seven Lakes Drive would be our last dance with the Beast and we set out to choreograph a graceful exit. Logan geared up with a rod and fishing license. I shuffled through our pile of unread books and picked some favorites, more than ready to forget myself in...
The Next Life

The Next Life

Although we’re currently set up in Bariloche on the edge of the Argentine Lakes District, our minds are elsewhere. The million dollar question: What’s next?  We still have the better part of a month to go on the road but our home life is rumbling toward us like a...
Kicked off the Carretera Austral

Kicked off the Carretera Austral

Unbeknownst to us, protests were raging and roadblocks were going up in Chile’s Aysen region. We were heading into the capital, Coyhaique, the only reliable place to refuel on the 1,200km Carretera Austral. We rolled into town on a sunny Friday afternoon expecting...
Health and Medication

Health and Medication

Overland advice series, 10 of 10. Neither of us are medical professionals. What follows are our amateur observations. Consult your doctor before making a decision. Malaria The majority of Westerners driving the PanAm do not take prophylactic medicine for Malaria. We...
A Damn Fine Road

A Damn Fine Road

Now on the Pacific slope the first thing we notice is that everything is a brilliant green.  Coming from the Argentine side, where endless golden plains stretch out in all directions, the scenery here is all the more captivating. In Chilean Patagonia luscious foliage...
Wind Break

Wind Break

Continuing north, El Chalten was in our sights. The town was quickly put together in 1985 by the Argentinean government in an effort to beat Chile to the land claim. At a population of 600, it is not much of a town. Gas, groceries, and ATM service is infrequent....
Castellano

Castellano

Overland Advice Series, part 9 of 10: Spend a long weekend in Puerto Vallarta and it’s easy to believe you’ve mastered the Spanish language. The reality is you know how to order a beer and ask for the bathroom. That margarita weekend won’t get you...
Southwest Patagonia

Southwest Patagonia

Northbound on RN 40, Argentina’s granite spires and snowcapped peaks grow more prominent emerging from the arid plains stretching endlessly east. These mountains were the destination for Yvon Chouinard’s famous PanAm journey with Doug Tompkins in 1968. Inspired by the...
Corrupt Policia

Corrupt Policia

Overland advice series, 8 of 10: When planning we had a pretty good sense that bandits wouldn’t kidnap us, the truck frame wouldn’t snap nor would we disappear in the Nicaraguan jungle. But we knew from a bit of previous wandering south of the border that the police...
Torres del Paine

Torres del Paine

We crossed to Punta Arenas, Chile via a rough seas ferry to meet up with our friend Espen. Over a few beers and a fine dinner we grilled him on his experience working in Antarctica for the season. Our interest was piqued but we had to get along before Malin would...
Victory Lap

Victory Lap

Planning, saving, and executing over the last three years meant we had one solitary focus. Now having reached the terminus of the PanAmerican Highway, we suddenly find ourselves without a mission. An eerie yearning pulls at us when we head out each morning. The sun...
Camping in the Bush

Camping in the Bush

Overlander advice, 7 of 10: Our first bush camp was on the tip of Baja.  We heard from a several experienced boondockers about Playa Tecalote.  This beach had no services, no fees, and no fences or watchmen to keep out those evil-doers.  It was nothing but undisturbed...
Searching for an End

Searching for an End

The day we left San Francisco we didn’t know there was a Ushuaia. We didn’t know about Route 3, Tierra del Fuego, or what lay at the end of the PanAmerican Highway. We only knew that one day we would get there. Crossing the Strait of Magellan Because the reactions to...
Why Overland

Why Overland

In place of this Sunday‘s “How-To” we present “Why“ Camped out on the Southernmost shore, Tierra del Fuego. Head on over to Lost World Expedition and read about how 9 months turned into...

Love Drunk

She’s whispering hurried goodbyes in between barely containable sobs. A fresh stream of tears moistens my own cheek as she embraces me with the tender physical emotion only a mother can produce. All day we tried not to think of this teary departure. Gripping my...
Costs by Country

Costs by Country

This is part six of a ten part series we are doing on overlanding advice. Future PanAm overlanders this is for you. They post each Sunday. We’ve already spelled out our day-to-day budget in our budgeting and costs post, here we have broken costs down by country. Our...
Tasty Treat

Tasty Treat

When it came time to decide on gifts for our family upon their arrival in Buenos Aires we were firmly decided we wanted to share an experience. For months we had been hatching different ideas about ways to experience a culture together with our family. Teresita, the...