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28 Days Later

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Despair.  Agony.  Devastation.  Mind numbing depression. We boarded the plane in São Paulo expecting the worst. Returning to life? We quizzed our veteran overland friends on the homecoming and transition process. The general consensus was bleak.  We just spent 15 months…

Please Standby

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Initiating reintegration procedures now. This may take a few weeks. Please standby. Giants vs. Dodgers to get this transition started right Tacos and margaritas, our kind of homecoming "You don't like baseball, you like to sit in the sun and…

Trout Therapy

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The Seven Lakes Drive would be our last dance with the Beast and we set out to choreograph a graceful exit. Logan geared up with a rod and fishing license. I shuffled through our pile of unread books and picked…

The Next Life

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Although we’re currently set up in Bariloche on the edge of the Argentine Lakes District, our minds are elsewhere. The million dollar question: What’s next?  We still have the better part of a month to go on the road but…

Kicked off the Carretera Austral

Unbeknownst to us, protests were raging and roadblocks were going up in Chile’s Aysen region. We were heading into the capital, Coyhaique, the only reliable place to refuel on the 1,200km Carretera Austral. We rolled into town on a sunny…

Health and Medication

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Overland advice series, 10 of 10. Neither of us are medical professionals. What follows are our amateur observations. Consult your doctor before making a decision. Malaria The majority of Westerners driving the PanAm do not take prophylactic medicine for Malaria.…

A Damn Fine Road

Now on the Pacific slope the first thing we notice is that everything is a brilliant green.  Coming from the Argentine side, where endless golden plains stretch out in all directions, the scenery here is all the more captivating. In…

Wind Break

Continuing north, El Chalten was in our sights. The town was quickly put together in 1985 by the Argentinean government in an effort to beat Chile to the land claim. At a population of 600, it is not much of…

Castellano

Overland Advice Series, part 9 of 10: Spend a long weekend in Puerto Vallarta and it’s easy to believe you’ve mastered the Spanish language. The reality is you know how to order a beer and ask for the bathroom. That margarita weekend…

Southwest Patagonia

Northbound on RN 40, Argentina’s granite spires and snowcapped peaks grow more prominent emerging from the arid plains stretching endlessly east. These mountains were the destination for Yvon Chouinard’s famous PanAm journey with Doug Tompkins in 1968. Inspired by the…

Corrupt Policia

Overland advice series, 8 of 10: When planning we had a pretty good sense that bandits wouldn’t kidnap us, the truck frame wouldn’t snap nor would we disappear in the Nicaraguan jungle. But we knew from a bit of previous…

Torres del Paine

We crossed to Punta Arenas, Chile via a rough seas ferry to meet up with our friend Espen. Over a few beers and a fine dinner we grilled him on his experience working in Antarctica for the season. Our interest was piqued…

Victory Lap

Planning, saving, and executing over the last three years meant we had one solitary focus. Now having reached the terminus of the PanAmerican Highway, we suddenly find ourselves without a mission. An eerie yearning pulls at us when we head…

Camping in the Bush

Overlander advice, 7 of 10: Our first bush camp was on the tip of Baja.  We heard from a several experienced boondockers about Playa Tecalote.  This beach had no services, no fees, and no fences or watchmen to keep out…

Searching for an End

The day we left San Francisco we didn’t know there was a Ushuaia. We didn’t know about Route 3, Tierra del Fuego, or what lay at the end of the PanAmerican Highway. We only knew that one day we would…

Why Overland

In place of this Sunday‘s “How-To” we present “Why“ Camped out on the Southernmost shore, Tierra del Fuego. Head on over to Lost World Expedition and read about how 9 months turned into 15.…

Love Drunk

She’s whispering hurried goodbyes in between barely containable sobs. A fresh stream of tears moistens my own cheek as she embraces me with the tender physical emotion only a mother can produce. All day we tried not to think of…

Costs by Country

This is part six of a ten part series we are doing on overlanding advice. Future PanAm overlanders this is for you. They post each Sunday. We’ve already spelled out our day-to-day budget in our budgeting and costs post, here…

Tasty Treat

When it came time to decide on gifts for our family upon their arrival in Buenos Aires we were firmly decided we wanted to share an experience. For months we had been hatching different ideas about ways to experience a…

A Home for the Holidays

With overstuffed bags and plenty of anticipation we boarded the commuter train to Buenos Aires. The $0.31 (US), 45 minute trip to the city felt excruciatingly endless, we just couldn’t wait to see the Pribbenos. Christmas Eve Oysters Riding up…

Into the Wild

You may have noticed that mountains have a sort of gravitational pull on our camper. Whenever close to towering granite or even uplifted oceanic sedimentary layers, an undeniable force pulls us in. We know we’re not alone in being drawn…

Routing and Planning

After Christmas break and a hard drive failure, we’re back to our overlanding advice series!  This is part five of ten. Despite living in the Bay Area I have always been one who prided myself on navigation sans technology. I…

…Make that 15

We spent a few spectacularly hot days camping in Parque Nacional El Palmar, a protected area housing the world’s oldest palm tree forest on the Argentine side of Rio Uruguay. One morning we woke up and decided to pop over to…

Meddling in Mendoza

After having spent a week in the small but picuresque wine town of Cafayate our tasting buds were piqued and Mendoza loomed on the horizon. 15,000 miles from home, wine country seemed like the perfect place to spend Thanksgiving. As…

Mistaken Identity

Argentines are not an easy people to pin down, not at all. – Sophie (AKA “El Jabon”) Introducing our cousin Sophie We’re sharing a cerveza with our cousin Sophie on a rooftop bar at an impossibly cool University hangout in…

Best of 2011

One year spent zig-zagging from the mountains to the Pacific Ocean across two continents. Traversing over the varied landscape of Central and South America depending our on appetite: white-sand surf break or a crisp mountain morning? A wild dream turned reality,…

Propane in Latin America

Editors Note: this is part four of a ten part series we are doing on overlanding advice.  Future PanAm overlanders this is for you.  They post each Sunday. Propane was a difficult subject to gather good information on (second only…

Incognito

Logan: “They have to have it.” Brianna: “Oh it’s in here, somewhere.” The Holy Grail, the good stuff from Mexico Salsa. When we’re not traversing altiplano landscapes, climbing wicked peaks, and grilling divine beef, we’re on a never-ending quest for…

Budgeting and Costs

Editors Note: this is part 3 of a ten part series we are doing on overlanding advice.  Future PanAm overlanders this is for you.  They post each Sunday. Determining a long term budget for a trip like the PanAm is…