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Leymebamba, Peru

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The road to Chachapoyas was a two-lane asphalt road, and a great ride as it followed the curvy edges of a winding river. We left the river to climb some switchbacks to the town itself and stayed a couple of…

Chachapoyas and Kuelap, Peru

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Chachapoyas is a lovely colonial-style town. The central plaza has lots of tour companies, cafes and shops.  I see a few gringos out and about, but mostly it’s locals, maybe because it’s the off-season now. We are back up in…

From the border of Peru to Chachapoyas

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After crossing the border we head for the town of San Ignacio before stopping for the night. We wind up staying at a small hotel and parking our bikes in a private garage behind the hotel. It’s a little unnerving…

The Place in the Midde

Read the original post and follow The Next Big Adventure's overland adventures on their website: The Next Big Adventure.


We are stuck. We spend our free time reading other travelers blogs, sucking up the nervous energy of those just preparing to embark, the excitement and joy of those on the road, and the reflection of those at the end.…

Riding into Peru

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We get to the border late in the day and I check my watch while we work on paperwork and see its 4pm. Yikes. We were hoping to ride all the way to San Ignacio tonight just to get away…

The long last day in Ecuador

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Vilcabamba is the last place we stay in Ecuador, and it has been gorgeous. We’ve heard from friends who have gone on ahead of us that the road ahead, which is largely dirt to the Peruvian border, is a nightmare…

A Getaway with the Parents

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What do you get your parents for Christmas? That baffling question that rolls around once a year, just about this season. By the age of 77 and 80, Jim’s parents have acquired everything they really want or need. In an…

Vilcabamba, Ecuador

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We rode south from Cuenca on a weekday on one of the main highways, but not the PanAm. There’s virtually no traffic which is nice, and we spend most of a day getting from Cuenca to Loja and then on…

Brian and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance

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Brian does some much needed work on the bikes while we are staying with Roberto and family in Cuenca – including changing tires, changing brake pads, changing spark plugs, etc. He spends parts of 3 days changing all the tires…

Drama on the Deschutes

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Darkness had fallen by the time we pulled into camp. Immediately greeted by Ron and Dario, talking over eachother, regarding the “situation”. While still at the office I had received the text from Dario advising us that they had taken…

Cuenca, Ecuador

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My tourbook, as I think I may have already shared, lists 6 things as the absolute “must see” things of Ecuador…and among them is Cuenca, another UNESCO World Heritage Site. It was colonized by the Spanish in the 1550s and…

From Macas to Cuenca, Ecuador

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The ride from Macas to Cuenca that we choose takes us through a beautiful river valley and west on Route 45. It’s raining in the morning as we go for breakfast and then pack up, and we are told that’s…

Clear Lake

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The silence was deafening. And exactly what we were looking for. Day to day life had, in recent weeks, become exhausting. Yes, a certain amount of angst is simply due to restlessness in our quest to return to the road.…

Baños, Ecuador

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In my tourist guide book for South America there are highlights listed for each country. And while I try to visit some of them, it’s not always possible to get to see them all. There six places listed for Ecuador,…