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SANTIAGO – CHILE

Santiago foi uma parada especial para nós, pois fomos recebidos na casa dos primos Ricardo e Mariana, e das pequenas Catarina e Victória. A grande vantagem de estar com alguém que mora no local em que você é turista, é conhecer pontos que nenhum guia te levaria.Passamos a tarde de sábado em um complexo turístico no vale do maipo, onde…

SAN PEDRO DE ATACAMA – CHILE

Depois de pouco mais de um ano retorno a San Pedro de Atacama para rever alguns locais e conhecer outros.Para chegar em San Pedro a jornada foi pesada; desde Santiago foram 4 dias de estrada percorrendo  mais de 1700 km com paradas em La Serena, Caldera e Antofagasta onde poucos quilometros antes da famosa escultura “mão do deserto”, mais um…

COQUIMBO – CHILE

Eu não poderia deixar passar essa cidade sem uma paradinha para ver onde nasceu o nome KOKIMBOS. Rodamos cerca de 470 Km desde Santiago pela rota 5 até a capital da província de Elqui. O nome Coquimbo tem origem quechua (lugar de águas tranquilas) A economia da área é baseada principalmente em mineração, pois tem grandes depósitos de magnésio, ouro,…

VALDÍVIA – CHILE

Localizada a 150 Km de Pucón e a 835Km da capital, a cidade de Valdívia não tem muitas atrações para o turista comum e não está na ista das cidades ais visitadas d Chile, mas desde que estive aqui em 2004 e me deparei com os lobos marinhos no mercado de peixes, fiquei com esse destino gravado e não poderia…

Chilly chilling in Chile

This weeks route We started out from Antofagasta 11 days ago refreshed and relaxed after our great visit with Shauna and Julian. Thanks again guys!!!! Checking out The Arch north of Antofagasta We kept heading south and found a good place to stop for the night at Pan de Azúcar National Park right on the ocean. Checking out some bizzare/cool…

Bronzed mountains

Carretera Austral scenery After our exploration of the southernmost part of the Carretera Austral, down as far as Puerto Yunguy, we headed back up to Cochrane again for the night.  Leaving Cochrane today we pointed north again and then quickly turned east towards the border with Argentina.  Another crossing, another set of stamps in the passports! As soon as we…

Beautiful Patagonia

Oh, Patagonia. I can’t even come up with the words to describe your beauty. From your jagged granite peaks, flowing glaciers that reflect every color of blue imaginable, clean flowing rivers and lakes packed with trout and salmon, to your wild wind swept grasslands, with an abundance of grazing Guanacos and Rheas, Patagonia you have lived up to and exceeded…

PUCÓN – CHILE

Com destino a Pucón, saimos de Bariloche ( o que não me deixou nada triste)  e rodamos por cerca de 190  Km por um trecho da rota 40, e depois foram mais 90 Km até a fronteira com o Chile, onde o caminho voltou ao bom e velho rípio pelos próximos 45 Km. Já acostumados com o trâmite das fronteiras,…

Little ripples

On the Carretera Austral The Carretera Austral continued to please us by being in a much better condition than we had come to expect from previous travellers.  Sure, there are points where the corrugations get distinctly worse, notably on the corners, and in some places the corrugations are a little more like ruts and potholes, and the road is often…

We’ve made it!!!

We have reached our second antipodal point, with a massive cheer. We left Cochrane around mid-morning.  Reading our map suggested it should not be too long a drive, although the narrow winding roads made it difficult to get a good time estimate. And then just a couple of hours down the road we made it.  We were delighted to find…

Moving targets

Way back in the spring of 2010, when we were planning our ‘final’ circumnavigation route we used Google maps to locate two points exactly opposite each other to be our antipodal points.  One was in north eastern Mongolia, the other on Ruta 7 in southern Chile. Imagine our horror in December 2012, when, having already visited our first antipodal point,…

Toyota attachment point

Toyota attached! “Toyota attachment point” I was reminded of this sticker today, usually seen on the back of a Land Rover, as we pulled up in front of an old Toyota truck, heavily laden with straw bales for animal feed or bedding, wedged into the ditch at the side of the road.  The small man with the weather-beaten face was…

Closer still ….

…. to our second antipodean point that is.  We have reached Cochrane, a small town of perhaps 1,000 people.  Next stop – our second antipodean point.  It seems we have been looking forward to this for so long.  It’ll be relief and celebration all wrapped up together. First antipodean point – achieved September 2010 (was it really that long ago)…

Steer right!

Bush mechanics We woke to bright morning sunshine, welcome after a very cold night that had left our noses chilled as they poked out from under our duvet during the night. Our campsite proved to be just as delightful in the morning sunshine as it had been in the fire and moonlight.  A few horsemen passed us by during the…

Fire by moonlight

Cuesta del Diablo After our brief stay in Coihaique we continued our route south, down the Carretera Austral, stopping briefly to take in the scenery overlooking the Cuesta del Diablo.  Although the autumn leaves were falling thick and fast just a few hundred miles north east in Argentina only a week or so ago, here the colours of autumn are…

Getting closer

Scenery along the Carretera It seems to have been forever since we passed our last significant marker on our attempt at a true circumnavigation overland, which was our first crossing of the equator back in Ecuador.  Within a few days we are due to be at our second antipodean point, and tonight we reached Coihaique, the nearest main town to…

A dusty house?

Even the car on the drive still remains buried in the ash at this house. Having stayed the night in Chaiten we took a look around the streets and the remains of this once provincial capital.  Destroyed by volcanic eruption in 2008 it now stands as a sad shadow of its former glory.  Many of the houses still stand as…

CARRETEIRA AUSTRAL – CHILE

Localizada no sul do Chile, esta estrada tem mais de 1200 Km de extensão e hoje já conta com alguns pequenos trechos asfaltados. Pegamos a Austral no caminho de Chile Chico para Puerto Tranquilo e seguimos por quase 900 Km, 90 % por terra. As paisagens são maravilhosas e vários parques nacionais e áreas de preservação são atravessados e também…

Reaching the Carretera

After our glorious autumnal campsite at the Argentinean border last night the border crossings back into Chile were quick and painless (the Chilean customs didn’t take any more of our food supplies), before we headed west towards the Carretera Austral.  Where we joined the road (Ruta 7) at Villa Santa Lucia we decided we had time to head north first…

PUERTO TRANQUILO – CHILE

Mais uma travessia de fronteira pela frente, pelas minhas contas essa é a sétima (depois vou contar com calma). Roteiro mais que decorado lá vamos nós para a imigração e aduana Argentina, seguimos por mais 4 Km e chegamos ao lado Chileno, onde também já temos de cor e salteado a sequência das formalidades. Só que dessa vez o oficial…

TORRES DEL PAINE

Puerto Natales no Chile é o ponto de partida mais próximo para se conhecer o parque nacional de Torres del Paine. Para chegar a Puerto Natales, foram mais de 12 horas de viagem desde Ushuaia de onde saimos ainda pela manhã, pois parte do caminho de ida deve ser refeito até o entrocamento com a entrada da balsa do estreito…

Normal service will be resumed ….

Apologies if things have been a bit quiet on the blog front of late.  We’ve been offline while we have been transferring hosting providers.  Things have been a bit quiet here in Chile but we should be moving south very soon and REACHING OUR SECOND ANTIPODEAN POINT!!!!!  *Big round of cheers*…

Southern Chile Camping Spots

Chiloe Playa Gaviotas, Ancud (S41 51.889 W73 45.707, 7m) Nice campground with beach access, although a little run down. Individual sites with big hedges for wind protection.  Each site has a covered picnic table and covered tent area (with sand floor). Electricity in each of the sites. There are rundown sinks with water at each end of the camping area.…

Reflections, Volcanos and Views in Chile

We were traveling north along the Pan American Highway known as Ruta 5 in Chile. This road goes from South to North along most of the country. Roads that branch off Ruta 5 go to loads of interesting places, and we decided to make a side trip through Parc National Conguillio. This park is unusual in that it has a…

St. Patrick’s Day on Volcan Villarica in Chile

We are now back on mainland Chile, a fifteen minute boat trip took us from Chiloe Island to Puerto Montt, and from here our goal was to see Volcan Osorno.   It was really strange being back in what seem to us like a mini ‘Europe’ after the wilds of Patagonia, very posh houses all with lake views, oodles of restaurants,…

Chiloe Island off the coast of Chile

As it had been a number of weeks since our last boat trip our sea- legs were wondering what was happening so we decided to do a trip to Chiloe Island. We boarded the ferry in Puerto Chacabuco and supposedly 28 hours later we were to disembark in Quellon in the south of Chiloe Island however due to bad weather…

Border Crossing: Chile to Argentina at Cerro Castillo

This was to be our last crossing of the Chile and Argentina border for which we were grateful given the 4 pages of stamps now in our passports from these 2 countries. Cerro Castillo is the nearest border crossing into Argentina to Torres del Paine and links up with Ruta 40 on the Argentine side. Cerro Castillo is a slightly…

The End of the Road

The air smelled of salt and the wind whipped my hair into a blazing Jerry curl as I stood at the bow of the ferry.  The low moan of the engines rose and fell with each passing wave.  It had been 42 months since I stood at my desk at work and sporadically blurted out the question that would change…

Rainbows and Rabbits

er, what’s up doc?  Feburary 14 arrived with sunshine and the skies cleared the way for rainbows.  The rabbits came out to frolic in the magic air; a St Valentine’s day  to remember. Quoi de neuf? Le 14 février est arrivé avec des rayons de soleil et des arc-en ciel. Les lapins sont sortis gambader dans l’atmosphère magique, un jour…

Torres del Paine

Torres del Paine has the reputation as being one of the best places to hike in the world. It also has the reputation as having some of the most changeable and wild weather in the world. When we arrived in the Park, from the quieter Western side, the famous mountains were covered in clouds which were raining – hard. We…