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Reminiscing About Leg 2 – The Turkmenistan to Kyrgyzstan Photo Gallery

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While I’ve been stuck in Tehran (Iran) over the last couple of weeks I’ve had the chance to reminisce about previous sections of the journey. Leg 2 from Turkmenistan to Kyrgyzstan was a fast paced, exciting race against the clock though some of the most beautiful and scenic countries along the Silk Road. At the time I thought this was the…

The Golden Road to Samarkand

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Time is flying by. I have so much I could write about, but too little time to do it justice. That has been the trouble with this trip… not enough time to simply sit back and relax. Now I’m in Central Asia and no longer need to rush against the wintery weather, the 30 day tourist visa to Uzbekistan just…

Get On With It – Getting to Dushanbe and Visa Woes

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So this was the plan… cycle through the Pamirs and on to Dushanbe, pick up my Uzbek visa and be on my way to Uzbekistan to see the Silk Road cities, make a brief detour to the remains of the Aral Sea and cycle on into Kazakhstan and fly home in time for Christmas. It didn’t leave much time for…

Riding the Pamir Highway – The Wakhan Valley – from Langar to Khorog

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It was a struggle leaving Langar. After a night in a bed (=mattress on floor), I was more tired than usual. Not much energy either (soup and bread for dinner is not enough calories for a cycle-tourer, even after you wake in the night and eat a Snickers bar).

Wakhan valley village

So I lingered over breakfast and finally got…

Riding the Pamir Highway – Into Wakhan Valley – Murghab to Langar

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I woke up in my dim unlit room in Murghab, went to the window and pulled back the curtains. White light blinded me. I blinked and rubbed my eyes and pressed my face to the window and watched my breath steam up the glass. Beyond, snow was falling gently and the world outside was all white…
Today will be a…

Riding the Pamir Highway – The Cold Way – Sary Tash to Murghab

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My legs and busting lungs screamed for a day off in Sary Tash (that’s what you get when you sit on a horse for a month). But the clear skies were too good to spend indoors. You never know when the winds will change and blow a dastardly-blizzardy-storm your way.
When I finally decided I would go, the lady at…

Tajikistan and the Pamir Highway – Dushanbe to Khorog

Read the original post and follow Scarlet 4x4's overland adventures on their website: The Adventures of the Scarlet 4x4 - Blog.


If Western Kazakhstan made us feel like “We’ve come on holiday by mistake”, and Uzbekistan made us feel like package tourists, then Tajikistan made us feel like pioneering adventurers – exploring the beautifully remote and dangerous corners of foreign mountain lands.  Tajikistan really was a highlight of the whole trip and now, even just two months later (as I write…

From Termis to Dushanbe

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Travelling South towards Termis and the Afghan border

From the relative security of the UK, our planning stages had involved sharp intakes of breath if ever our proposed route came within two time zones of Afghanistan.We had chosen routes far to the North of the border regions, forsaking main roads and some beautiful areas of the Pamir Highway – most…

Bucurii colaterale

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Sunt motociclista incepatoare. Cand am plecat din Bucuresti, acum mai putin de doua luni, abia facusem 600 km pe motor. La volanul unei masini am facut chiar mai putin, poate vreo 100 km, si aia acum mai bine de o decada in urma. In mai aveam zero experienta in trafic si chiar si pe micuta mea Suzuki ma simteam un…

Dushambe, un cuibusor tadjik

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Cica nu exista rau fara bine. Pentru calatori, a fi cu ochii in patru e musai: atentie si la pericole, dar si la oportunitati efemere (vocea unei femei care rasuna in fundul alei poate vesti o petrecere, un claxon de bicicleta poate semnala baiatul cu paine calda… si tot asa). In unele cazuri e o chestiune de “nas”, in altele…

The Boris Interviews – Jonny meets a Kirghiz Tribesman

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While on my way along the Pamir Highway I was flagged down by a local herdsman desperately looking for a ride to Murgab. The locals had helped me out many times along the journey so I thought it was only fair to return the favour.
Neither of us understood what the other was saying. This didn’t stop us having a top chat though.…

Tajikistan Part 2 – The Pamir Highway and blagging my way out of the country, again!

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I had strong suspicions that my entry back into Tajikistan wasn’t going to be straight forward. I was wrong. It was too easy. The guards who I had met at length only a week before, had forgotten me. It wasn’t like I was the only tourist entering Afghanistan with his own car at this time of year. Oh wait, that’s right I was.…

Tajikistan Part 1 – Magnificient Mountains, Vodka Based Team Building, Friendly Russians and a Dodgy Border Crossing

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Iskander Kul (Lake)
I departed Tashkent around 7am hoping to get to the border at Buston early. I’d decided to aim for Iskander Kul which was a couple of hours north of Dushanbe. As long as I passed through the border in a timely fashion I reckoned I could make it before dark. I got to the border and there…