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Mongolian Motoring Madness

Mongolia is a unique country in every aspect; a country often associated with isolation and remoteness, a country with a very extraordinary inimitable stark landscape. It is not all nomads and yak though; due to the recent discovery of copper and gold deposits it is developing at an extremely fast rate. The country that Ewan McGregor and Charley Boorman visited…

A One-Ger-Full Life

With a perfectly-pitched camp on the banks of the Zavkhan River overlooked by the holy Otgontenger mountain, dinner was underway (tinned sardines despite two hours spent fishing for Taimen giant trout in the river) when we spotted a small army of Mongolians approaching from the South. Sardines off and tea on, the mother and children gathered on a blanket, entertained…

Reaching the Peak

Location:  47° 54′ 41″ N, 106° 58′ 53″ E, Ulaanbaatar, Mongolia Distance from Sydney:  10,126km So we’ve crossed Mongolia.  Like a mountain climber reaching the peak, Mongolia was our half way mark, timewise for me (3 months of a 6 month journey), and also the greatest challenge in terms of remoteness, roads and logistics.  Appropriately, like the top of a…

Enter Mongolia

Location : 47 44′ 27″N, 96 50′ 17″E (Uliastay, Mongolia) Distance from Sydney: 10,597km A mini update, written just after arriving in Mongolia: I’m meant to be trying to finish off the Russian blog right now, but I want to talk about Mongolia instead. It’s our second night in the country, and first night camping. I don’t know how to…

One Day in Ulaanbaatar

Our arrival into the Mongolian capital was of stark contrast to our drive from the border with its rolling green hills, peaceful Gers and scenic steppe dotted with grazing animals. The suburban sprawl of the city creeps up the surrounding mountainsides as we approach to see the haphazard concrete urban jungle before us. We were able to get an extremely…

Tough Miles Blog 7: The BAM Road

Jon here:   The BAM road is not just about motorcycling skill, it is a real test of physical and mental endurance. It is impossible to portray how tough this route really is, and once finally over it is far too easy to forget the pain each kilometer can bring. To ride it you need pure grit and determination. Mongolia…

Tough Miles Blog 6: The Mighty Mongolia.

Pete here. The only time we’ve had the shower gel out in the last 8 days is to lubricate the tyres for a set change or puncture repair. I’ve never felt as filthy as I did on that last night before we made it to Ulaanbaatar, the capital of Mongolia. Everything was covered in sand and mud from numerous falls…

Is it better to travel than arrive…?

OK, so we had arrived at our destination – Ulaanbaatar – exotic city of eastern mystery, fabled centre of Gengis Khan’s legendary empire, magical destination on the Silk Road. Well actually it wasn’t founded until around 1639 (well after Genghis’s time), it’s never been on the Silk Road (that runs much further south of the Gobi desert) and, to be…

Faces of Mongolia

Young Mongolian horseman. He was probably on a horse before he could walk. Leon charms the locals as the crowd gathers And you thought we were mad! This guy was cycling from UB to his home in Austria Andrew asks where the nearest recruiting office is Sorry, but I'm not sure we will have a uniform big enough for you…

Giant steps are what you take walking on the moon

Basically there are two most commonly used routes from the western border crossing at Tsagaanuur to Ulaanbaatar – the northern route via Ulaangom and Moron ( ) and the southern route via Khovd, Altai and Bayankhongor. We weren’t going to use either of these, we would forge our way by a more central route which would be much quieter in…

The Eagle and the Lamb

Ger camp near Olgiy We weren’t all that sure what to expect. Jeff just told us some transport would arrive for us around 11.00 and we would be away for around half a day, involving some horse riding, a traditional Mongolian meal and a visit to an eagle-hunter (that’s someone who hunts with eagles, not a hunter of eagles –…

We’re in!

So we all lapsed back into RWM (Roadside Waite Mode). We dozed, read, listened to music or chatted with fellow travellers, waiting for the border to open at 09.00. Waiting at the border At 08.50 the border personnel started arriving, mostly walking from the barracks a few hundred yards down the road – you must have done something really bad…

Waiting at the border….

….bollocks! There was nothing for it but to wait until the border opened on Monday. So we’d better find some food and somewhere to camp. The guards were pretty helpful and pointed us to a shop a few hundred yards down the road. We stocked up on essentials: bread, crisps, chocolate and beer – and set off to find ourselves…

An arse kicking in Mongolia

Total mileage: 23,000m Location: among millions of people somewhere in N China Day: about 170? (We really stopped counting a while ago) We’re in China and it’s a mad race. No time for morning Yoga, a chord on the guitar or the comfortable search for the suitable campsite. It’s a rush. Time is money, every minute has a price, every…